Max StripPaint & Varnish Stripper 32oz - Paint Stripper for multiple layers of acrylic, latex, oil & water-based paints, varnishes. For wood, metal, masonry, plaster, tile, molding.

I could not have completed this project without this product, due to arthritis in my hands. Here is how I used it, based on other reviewers recommendations. I placed cardboard and/or paper down on the carpeting under this cabinet to keep it protected from the damp paint that came loose during this process. Here are the steps I used. 1. I wore nitrile gloves to keep my hands safe. 2) After emptying it of its contents, I thoroughly cleaned the china cabinet. It had a very old, shiny, faux gold with wood grain, paint effect under a heavy gloss varnish. There were at least four coats of paint, including black three layers down, and a wood stain, likely original from when the piece was first sold. 2. I applied this product to one small area at a time (the top, one side at a time, one surface at a time...you get the idea). I tried to paper and tape the glass, but that didn't work. The product was absorbed into the paper. I just cleaned the glass with left over product after the project was completed (I used heavy duty nail polish remover in tiny, hard to reach areas). 3. I used a sponge or towel to apply the product. I applied to an area of the cabinet about the size of a paper towel. I used a spray bottle to dampen a paper towel. I placed the damp paper towel over the product. I used painter tape to seal plastic wrap over the paper towel. After about 30 mins. I checked to make sure the paper towel was still damp. If it wasn't, I misted it with water again and returned the plastic over it. I repeated this as necessary in areas that were tougher to tackle (there were a few, especially at the beginning of the project, and the inside of the top of the cabinet was awkward. I had to do a few spots more than twice). After about an hour from first applying the product, I used a scraper to simply slide ALL of the layers of varnish, paint and stain off. It was amazing. I needed two bottles of this to complete the inside and outside of the china cabinet. The smell wasn't unpleasant. Not chemical. I did use a fan (which was why I started checking the paper towels were still damp every 30 mins or so) and was right next to an open window for ventilation. The fan was not facing the cabinet, but its effect was enough to start to dry the paper towels more than once. I tried another product that has a citrus base that has a smell I cannot tolerate. I prefer this product in every conceivable way. It is easy to use. It is safe. I like the size as I cannot handle heavy containers. This product sticks to the surface well, especially vertical surfaces, when using the damp paper towel covered with plastic wrap method. I never would have been able to tackle this project if I had needed to use elbow grease. I needed a few different sized scrapers, because there were very narrow, as well as rounded areas in the cabinet. I had some clay shaping tools that worked really well for this. I also used paper towels when removing the ribbons of paint layers that were coming off. That was sticky and messy. I went through a lot of nitrile gloves and paper towels, but both were critical to my success. Use the thicker quality gloves (6 mil or more), not the cheapest (3 mil). Overall, this is my go-to product now. I am eyeing lots of other pieces of furniture that won't be devalued by stripping, and will look so much better in their natural state. As a follow up. I cleaned this cabinet with Old English wood oil. It is an old but effective wood cleaner I've used for decades. Photo 1 shows the ugly gold paint still present inside on the bottom shelf of the cabinet. The whole thing looked like that. Photo 2 shows the new improved cabinet after stripping and then applying Old English Wood Oil. I did not add a stain. I'm very pleased with the results. Now I can fill it back up with my china.

I wanted to strip a badly damaged and weathered varnish finish from a nearly 100-year old mandolin. I applied Citrus Strip to a section of the top and left it wet for about three hours. It took off the upper layers of varnish for sure, but left an inconsistent, patchy surface with plenty of finish still present where it was deeply absorbed. A second application didn't significantly improve the surface and I feared I was looking at either significant sanding (hazardous on such an instrument) or applying a dark, opaque finish that was not my preference.I tried Max Strip on another section of the top: after shaking it for a minute of two it poured and spread like a wet foam that was easy to control with a small sponge brush. I left it on for about an hour and half, and removed it using a Scotch Brite scouring pad rather than a plastic spatula that can be tricky on the arched, curved surface. The result was dramatic compared to the Citrus Strip. The Max Strip removed enough finish to reveal the wood with just a transparent patina of wash-ed out varnish. Additional rubbing with the scouring pad removed the final sheen and I was down to greyish wood - light sanding exposed fresh grain that can be prepped to accept a new transparent finish.To neutralize the stripping action, wipe the surface down with a damp rag and let the piece sit and dry out.Easy use, easy cleanup. Great product.

The product is mostly odorless and does not seem harmful to the skin, so that's the good part. The bad part is that it does not work well at at all, and most frustrating for me is that it's so liquid, it get's really messy and you cannot use it on anything vertical. Waste of money for me.

If you are trying something already pealing heavily, this would probably work well. Just be sure to read all of the directions, including wearing gloves. I also recommend long sleeves. (Always avoid skin contact when dealing with products intended to destroy paint, varnish, etc.However, my husband and I were trying to remove the finish from a bay window seat and the side walls and ceiling of the bay window area.Where water had eaten away some areas, this worked easily enough. But, it really did not work well at getting through the areas that were still well sealed.We discovered that sanding with no. 60 heavy duty sandpaper worked much better. It absolutely takes a lot longer and requires masks so you’re not breathing in any paint or varnish. But, the wood revealed is the underneath, natural wood (or possibly still lightly stained wood).